Let me guess.
You’ve been doing everything right.
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Washing gently.
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Using “clean” products.
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Maybe even splurged on a fancy scar serum that promised miracles.
And yet… your keloid?
Still angry. Still raised. Still doing its own thing.
If you’re like I was, you might’ve whispered the question to yourself at 2 a.m.:
“Is my skincare actually making this worse?”
Short answer? Yes—it might be.
Here’s the raw truth most influencers, product labels, and even dermatologists don’t talk about:
Some skincare ingredients marketed as “safe” or “nourishing” can trigger irritation, inflammation, or even subtle growth in keloid-prone skin.
And the worst part? It’s often the most well-meaning routines that cause the most damage.
Let’s break it down.
🧴 First: Keloids Are Not “Normal” Scars
Keloids aren’t regular scars. They’re overgrowths of collagen caused by an overactive healing response.
So while the skincare industry loves selling us post-acne fading creams or “brightening” potions, those products are designed for flat scars—not hyperactive tissue with a mind of its own.
Keloids don’t just sit there.
They respond to trauma, inflammation, and even seemingly gentle ingredients. Which brings us to…
🚨 Ingredients That Might Be Triggering Your Keloid
1. Essential Oils (Yes, Even “Soothing” Ones)
Lavender. Tea tree. Frankincense. Rosehip.
They sound holistic. Some are even anti-inflammatory in lab tests.
But in keloid-prone skin?
They’re a big maybe—because they’re highly reactive and can irritate damaged or sensitive skin.
Essential oils can:
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Disrupt your skin barrier
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Trigger inflammation in scar tissue
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Prolong the healing phase that feeds keloid growth
Bottom line: If your keloid tingles, darkens, or itches after applying that “calming” oil blend, it’s not calming—it’s agitating.
2. Exfoliants: AHA, BHA, Retinol (Yes, Really)
We’re told exfoliation is the holy grail of scar fading.
But when it comes to keloids, abrasion is the enemy.
AHAs (glycolic, lactic), BHAs (salicylic), and retinoids:
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Stimulate cell turnover (great for acne, terrible for active keloids)
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Can cause micro-inflammation that reignites collagen production
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May darken hyperpigmentation on textured scar tissue
Translation: You might be “renewing” your skin while fueling the very overgrowth you want to shrink.
3. Fragrance (Both Synthetic and “Natural”)
Fragrance is one of the top causes of cosmetic irritation—and scar tissue is more sensitive than normal skin.
Even “unscented” products often contain masking agents or botanical fragrances like orange peel or eucalyptus, which:
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Disrupt your skin’s microbiome
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Trigger itchiness (which leads to scratching, which leads to more trauma)
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Delay the calming phase of scar healing
Pro tip: Look for “fragrance-free” not “unscented.” They’re not the same.
4. Alcohol-Based Serums and Toners
They give that tight, clean feeling—but that’s not healing.
That’s barrier damage.
Ingredients like denatured alcohol, SD alcohol, and even some astringent witch hazel:
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Dehydrate scar tissue
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Cause tiny fissures in the skin’s surface
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Make your skin overcompensate with more oil and more inflammation
Keloids love unstable environments. Alcohol makes your skin chaotic.
5. Vitamin C (Controversial, But Important)
Look—I love Vitamin C for glow as much as the next skincare nerd.
But in high concentrations (especially L-ascorbic acid), it can:
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Irritate sensitive or scarred skin
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Cause redness or tingling around keloids
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Mix badly with other actives in your routine
If you use it, keep it under 10% and buffered with soothing ingredients. Or skip it entirely if you notice flares.
🧘🏽♀️ What Your Keloid Actually Needs from Skincare
Forget the 10-step routine. Focus on stability, calm, and barrier support. Here’s what to look for:
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Centella asiatica (Cica) – anti-inflammatory, collagen-modulating
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Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) – repairs and soothes
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Niacinamide (low strength) – reduces pigment and redness, supports barrier
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Allantoin – softens tissue, reduces itching
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Silicone gels/sheets – clinically backed for flattening and protecting keloids
And more than anything?
Let your skin rest. Because constant product changes and “chasing results” often fuel the chaos.
🧠 Final Thought: More Isn’t Healing—It’s Harming
We live in a world where skincare is sold as self-care.
But when you have a keloid, “more” is not better.
Your scar doesn’t need exfoliation. It doesn’t need a glow-up. It needs peace—and so do you.
So if your current products are making things worse, this isn’t a failure.
It’s your skin asking for less. For simplicity. For space to do what it knows how to do—heal, not hustle.
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